Sam Watson Sets World Record in Speed Climbing, But What Is the Sport?

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Sport climbing debuted in Tokyo three years ago with a combined event that combined three disciplines – speed, boulder, and lead – into one medal event. In Paris, there was a medal for speed and another for boulder and lead combined.

The Basics

The speed event is an exhilarating and fast-paced discipline within the sport of climbing, where athletes race against each other to ascend a standardized climbing wall as quickly as possible. For those spectating at a speed climbing event, a moment’s distraction can prove costly.

Athletes scale a 15-meter (49 feet) wall in around five seconds, scampering up a series of holds toward a red buzzer at the top of the route. The wall for international competition has two climbing lanes, each 3 meters (10 feet) wide.

This sport is not solely about going as fast as you can in a vacuum, but also about beating your opponent in a head-to-head race. Even a slow time can secure a spot in the next round if it means slapping the red buzzer at the top of the wall ahead of the adjacent person.

The route is always the same, allowing climbers to memorize and perfect their techniques.

Are There Regulators?

The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the organization that regulates and promotes climbing competitions worldwide. The IFSC sets the standards for speed climbing and other climbing competition formats and determines which events are sanctioned for world record attempts.

The IFSC was established in 2007, succeeding the International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) which was formed in 1997.

The organization includes member federations from countries around the world, all dedicated to the development and regulation of sport climbing.